Types of cotton fabric: the essential guide

When it comes to choosing the right fabric for your sewing projects, cotton is a popular and versatile option. With an incredible variety of types available, you’re sure to find the perfect cotton fabric to suit your needs. 

Cotton fabric is known for its softness, breathability, and natural comfort, making it a staple in the world of textiles. From lightweight fabrics like batiste and voile to heavier materials like denim and canvas, there’s a type of cotton fabric for almost every sewing project. The processing methods and additional fibers mixed with cotton can drastically change the texture and appearance of each fabric type.

Whether you’re creating clothing, home décor, or crafting projects, let’s discover the world of cotton fabrics and find the one that’s perfect for you.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase after clicking these links, Threadistry may receive a small commission, at no cost to you.

What is Cotton Fabric

Cotton fabric is a type of textile made from the fibers of the cotton plant. It is one of the most commonly used fabrics in the world due to its softness, durability, and versatility.

The cotton plant is primarily grown in warm and humid regions of the world. It is a tropical and subtropical crop that requires a long growing season with plenty of sunshine and water. 

The largest cotton-producing countries are China, India, and the United States. Other major cotton-producing countries include Brazil, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt. In the United States, cotton is grown primarily in the southern states, such as Texas, Georgia, and Mississippi. 

Cotton fabric can be woven or knitted into a variety of textures and weights, ranging from lightweight voile and muslin to heavier denim and canvas. It is also easy to dye and print, making it a popular choice for clothing, bedding, and home decor. Additionally, cotton is a natural and breathable material, which makes it ideal for use in warm weather.

Types of cotton plant

There are three species of cotton plant. Regular cotton is a generic term that refers to cotton that is grown in many different regions around the world. The quality of regular cotton can vary greatly depending on where it is grown and how it is processed.

Egyptian cotton is grown specifically in Egypt and is known for its long, fine fibers, which produce a soft, smooth, and durable fabric. Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the highest quality cotton due to its long staple fibers, which can be up to 2.5 inches long.

Pima cotton is another type of cotton that is grown primarily in the southwestern United States, Peru, and Australia. It is also known for its long, fine fibers, which produce a soft and durable fabric. Pima cotton is often compared to Egyptian cotton in terms of quality.

Understanding Fabric Weave

One of the key differences between different cotton fabrics is the weave. Different fabric weaves create different textures, appearances, and functionality of the material. 

Woven fabric is created by weaving two sets of threads (warp and weft) together at right angles. The warp threads run lengthwise (parallel to the selvedge), while the weft threads run crosswise (from selvedge to selvedge). Knitted fabric is made by looping the yarn in a specific pattern, which creates a more flexible and stretchy material. 

Plain weave is the most basic form of woven fabric, with the warp and weft yarns crossing over and under each other quite simply and uniformly. This creates a smooth and even fabric surface.

Satin weave is another common type of cotton weave. It is characterized by its shiny and smooth surface, which is achieved by having the warp threads float over multiple weft threads. This weave has less friction, making it ideal for bed sheets and other items that require a gentle touch.

Twill weave features a diagonal pattern that is created by the warp and weft threads crossing over the other in an uneven way. The visible pattern and texture of the twill weave make it less prone to showing dirt and stains. This type of weave is commonly used for denim, upholstery, and uniforms.

Guide to Different Types of Cotton Fabric and Their Uses

There are so many different types of cotton fabric available! Let’s explore the various cotton fabric types and their common uses. 

Twill

Twill fabric is a type of textile weave that produces a diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric. It is created by interlacing the warp and weft yarns in a way that produces a diagonal ribbed texture. This is achieved by passing the weft yarn over one or more warp yarns, then under two or more warp yarns, and so on, creating a diagonal line on the surface of the fabric.

Cotton twill is known for its durability and strength, and it is often used for heavy-duty purposes, such as workwear, uniforms, and upholstery. It can also be used for lighter-weight garments, such as skirts, dresses, and jackets.

Denim

Denim is a type of twill weave fabric. It is a durable, versatile cotton fabric known for its use in jeans, jackets, and skirts. Its twill weave gives it strength and a distinct diagonal pattern. It is widely used for casual clothing and workwear.

Denim is a type of twill fabric, but it is distinct from other twill fabrics in a few ways. Denim is typically a heavier-weight twill fabric and is traditionally a blue color (through a dyeing process called indigo dyeing). The twill weave used for denim has a diagonal pattern that runs in one direction. This gives denim its distinctive look and texture.

Calico

Calico fabric is a plain-woven cotton fabric that is typically unbleached and undyed. It is known for its durability and versatility and is often used for making muslins (test garments used to check the fit and design of a pattern before cutting into more expensive fabric). Calico fabric is also used for making quilts, curtains, and other home decor items.

Chintz

Chintz is a calico fabric that has been printed with a design featuring flowers and other patterns, on a light background.

Corduroy

Corduroy fabric is a type of textile that is characterized by its distinct ridged or “corded” surface. It is made by weaving a twisted yarn called a “cord” into a plain or twill weave, then cutting the fabric pile to create the characteristic ridges or “wales”.

Corduroy is typically made from cotton, but it can also be made from other fibers such as polyester, rayon, or a blend of fibers. It is a durable and warm fabric that is often used for making pants, jackets, and other outerwear. Lighter-weight versions are used in shirts and dresses and heavier weights are used in furniture upholstery. 

Flannel

Flannel is a medium-weight cotton fabric that has been brushed on one or both sides to give a soft, warm feel. It is commonly used for casual shirts, pajamas, and bedding. Flannel’s breathability and moisture-wicking properties also make it great for a good night’s sleep. 

Muslin

Muslin is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabric with a plain weave. It’s breathable and versatile, used for clothing items like summer dresses, blouses, and scarves, as well as curtains and swaddling clothes for babies.

Canvas

Canvas is a heavy, durable cotton fabric with a plain weave, often used for tote bags, aprons, home furnishings, and casual shoes.

Chino

Chino is a cotton fabric with a twill weave similar to denim. It’s commonly used for trousers and shorts, offering a more refined appearance for semi-formal occasions.

Jacquard

Jacquard is a woven fabric with intricate patterns or designs created by using different types of yarns. It’s used for luxurious clothing items, such as dresses and jackets, as well as home décor items like curtains and upholstery.

Cotton Lawn

Cotton Lawn fabric is a lightweight, finely woven cotton with a soft texture and a smooth finish, perfect for breathable, delicate clothing like blouses and summer dresses.

Tana Lawn is a trademark of Liberty of London. The product was named after Lake Tana in Ethiopia, where its unique long-staple cotton fibres originated.

Cotton Poplin

Poplin is a plain-weave cotton fabric with a smooth texture and tightly woven construction. It is made by weaving the weft yarns over and under the warp yarns in a simple criss-cross pattern, which produces a strong and durable fabric. This lightweight and breathable fabric is often used for making dress shirts, blouses, and dresses. It is also used for making lightweight jackets, skirts, and pants.

It can also be made from other fibers such as polyester, silk, or a blend of fibers, so double-check the fabric composition when buying poplin.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a fabric with a puckered or crinkled texture. The fabric is woven so that some threads are held tighter than others, causing the fabric to pucker and create a striped or checkered pattern. It’s a lightweight and breathable fabric, often used for summer clothing such as shirts, dresses, and suits.

Sateen

Cotton sateen has a smooth, lustrous surface and luxurious feel due to being made with a satin weave. Cotton sateen is also typically made using finer yarns than other cotton fabrics, contributing to its soft and silky texture. It’s often used for high-end bedding, such as sheets and pillowcases, as well as for clothing items such as dresses, blouses, and skirts.

Gingham

Gingham (or Vichy check) is known for its distinctive checkered pattern in a simple plain weave. The yarn (or thread) is usually dyed before weaving. 

It is a lightweight and breathable fabric that is often used for making warm-weather clothing such as dresses, blouses, and skirts. It is also used for making tablecloths, napkins, and other home decor items. Gingham is also great to use for test garments as it’s easy to see the grainline of the fabric, and where the fabric isn’t laying correctly.

Gauze

Gauze fabric is a type of lightweight, sheer fabric that is characterized by its loose, open weave. It is made by weaving two sets of yarns together in a way that creates a crinkled or wrinkled texture and a gauzy appearance. It is a popular choice for bohemian and beachy styles due to its relaxed and breezy feel.

Crepe

Crepe fabric is made by using twisted yarns that are woven in a way that creates a pebbled or crinkled texture. The fabric can be woven using a plain weave, twill weave, or satin weave, and comes in a range of weights, from lightweight to heavy. 

Crepe fabric is often used for making dresses, blouses, pants and skirts, as well as for scarves, shawls, and other accessories. It is a versatile fabric that can be dressed up or down, and it is often used for both casual and dressier clothing.

Organdy

Organdy fabric is a type of sheer, lightweight cotton fabric that is known for its crisp and stiff texture. It is made by weaving fine cotton yarns in a plain weave and then treating the fabric with a sizing agent to stiffen it. Organdy fabric is often used for making dresses, blouses, and other clothing items that require a stiff and structured fabric. It is also used for making curtains, tablecloths, and other home decor items.

Damask

Damask is made using a special weaving technique that involves using a single warp yarn and a single weft yarn to create a pattern. The pattern is created by varying the tension of the weft yarn, which creates a raised or lowered effect on the surface of the fabric. This technique allows for intricate and detailed patterns to be woven into the fabric. It can be made from silk, rayon, or a blend of fibers as well as cotton.

Damask fabric is often used for making high-end clothing and home decor items such as tablecloths, curtains, and upholstery. 

Terrycloth

Terrycloth is made by weaving the fabric using an additional set of yarns that are looped on one or both sides of the fabric. This creates a soft and absorbent texture that is ideal for making towels, bathrobes, and other items that need to absorb moisture.

Chenille

Chenille fabric is made by weaving the fabric using chenille yarn, which is a type of yarn that is made by wrapping a core yarn with short lengths of fuzzy yarn. The fuzzy yarns are then trimmed to create a soft and plush texture on the surface of the fabric.

Chenille fabric is often used for making upholstery, drapery, and other home decor items, as well as for making clothing items such as sweaters and scarves.

Velvet

Velvet is a plush, luxurious fabric with a soft, smooth pile, made from cotton or a blend of fibers. It’s often used for evening wear, jackets, and home décor items like cushions and curtains.

Voile

Voile fabric is made by using a plain weave to create a lightweight, soft, and semi-transparent fabric. It is often used for making blouses, as well as for semi-sheer curtains and drapes.

Broadcloth

Broadcloth is a densely woven fabric that is shrunk after it is woven to further increase the density. It is traditionally made from wool, but can also be made from cotton. It has a stiff drape and is weather-resistant and hard-wearing, with a subtle sheen, making it great for jackets and other outwear, and home decor.

Batiste/Cambric/Chambray

Cambric or Batiste is a lightweight cotton fabric with a smooth, slightly glossy surface, ideal for clothing like shirts and dresses, as well as bed linens and curtains. Chambray is the same type of fabric made with a colored warp thread and white weft. It’s used for various clothing items, such as shirts, dresses, and skirts.

Cheesecloth

Cheesecloth is loosely woven cotton fabric, often used in the kitchen for straining and wrapping foods, as well as for clothing items like loose-weave shirts and scarves. The grade of cheesecloth is determined by the number of threads per inch in the fabric.

Plaid

Plaid cotton fabric features a crisscross pattern of various colors, often used for shirts, dresses, and home décor items like cushions and curtains.

Quilting Cotton

Quilting cotton is a tightly woven, medium-weight fabric that is characterized by its durability and resistance to wear and tear. It is designed for patchwork quilting and comes in a wide range of colors and prints. It can also be used for home decor, such as placemats and table runners, stuffed toys and clothing (although it is stiffer and less drapey than other cotton fabrics).

• Find out more about using quilting cotton for clothes.
• Quilting cotton can be bought as fat quarters. Find out what a fat quarter is here.

Crinkle cotton

Crinkle cotton is woven in a way that intentionally creates a crinkled texture, and then it is washed or treated with chemicals to set the texture.

It is lightweight, breathable, and comfortable to wear, often used for summer clothing, such as dresses, skirts, and blouses, as well as for scarves, shawls, and other accessories. It is a popular choice for bohemian and beachy styles due to its relaxed and breezy feel.

Broderie Anglaise/Eyelet

Broderie Anglaise fabric is a lovely cotton fabric that features delicate cutwork patterns and embroidered details. It’s perfect for lightweight, airy garments like dresses, skirts, and blouses. You’ll often find this fabric in children’s clothing and decorative linens as well. Its beautiful design adds a touch of elegance to your projects, and you’ll love how breathable and soft it feels against your skin.

Brushed Cotton

If you’re looking for a cozy fabric, consider using brushed cotton. This type of cotton is specially treated to create a soft, fluffy texture on one or both sides of the fabric. It’s excellent for use in linings, pajamas, and even casual shirts thanks to its warmth and comfort. Since it’s made from 100% cotton, brushed cotton is breathable, easy to care for, and perfect for year-round wear.

Cotton Knit Fabrics

Jersey

Cotton jersey is a knitted fabric that is stretchy and breathable, commonly used for t-shirts and athletic wear. Jersey fabric is also known for its durability and resistance to pilling, making it a great choice for clothing items that need to withstand frequent use and washing.

Cotton Interlock

Cotton interlock is a double-knitted jersey. It is a heavier fabric as it is made from two single jersey fabrics knitted together. It has less stretch and doesn’t curl at the edges, and is traditionally used for polo shirts.

Cotton Rib Knit

Cotton rib knit (ribbing) is made by knitting yarn with a stockinette stitch on a circular knit machine. This creates a fabric with a series of raised vertical lines or ribs. The ribs give the fabric a stretchy and flexible texture, making it ideal for clothing items such as T-shirts, tank tops, and other fitted garments. It can also be used for collars, cuffs and bands.

Cotton Blends

As well as pure cotton fabrics, cotton can also be blended with other fibers to combine the best qualities of both fibers. 

Cotton-polyester blends combine the softness of cotton with the durability and wrinkle resistance of polyester. These poly-cotton blends can come in different ratios, such as 50/50 or 65/35, depending on the desired characteristics. The polyester content helps resist shrinking and fading so, when you pull your favourite pair of trousers out of the dryer, you can trust they’ll still fit well and look great.

Another popular cotton blend is the cotton-rayon blend. This fabric marries the absorbency and breathability of cotton with the smooth, drapey texture of rayon. Cotton-rayon blends are perfect for lightweight summer clothing because they allow your skin to breathe and help you stay cool in hot weather.

Another popular blend is the cotton spandex (also known as cotton lycra or cotton elastance). A small percentage of spandex gives a bit of stretch for added comfort and a better fit. It’s perfect for activewear or any clothing that needs to move with your body without losing its shape.

Wow, there are so many cotton fabrics out there, each with its strengths and purposes. Cotton really can be used for almost anything in sewing. Which will you choose for your next sewing project?