Flat dinosaur plush sewing tutorial (with free pattern templates!)
After spotting my Flat Teddy sewing tutorial, a reader asked if I had a dinosaur one. So I decided to create one! Introducing my Flat Dinosaur Plush sewing pattern:
Just like Flat Teddy, it’s a simple design, lightly stuffed for just the right amount of cuddliness (and easy for little hands to carry around).
It can be sewn from a quarter yard of just about any cuddly fabric – fleece, fur, flannel or quilting cotton. This one is made in a gorgeously soft minky. The eye is hand-embroidered with embroidery floss to make the toy suitable for all ages. I like to use a similar tone to the fabric (to hide my lazy embroidery skills!).
The spikes are a little fiddly to sew, so it’s intermediate/super-confident beginner. Without the spikes, it’s suitable for beginners (who are comfortable sewing curves).
The finished size is approximately 17 inches (44cm) wide and 8 inches (20cm) tall.
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Supplies
The first thing you’ll need is your free Flat Dinosaur Plush template. Just enter your details below to join the Threadistry sewing community. Receive sewing projects, ideas and inspiration plus your FREE Flat Dinosaur Plush pattern template!
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- 1/4 yard (25cm) minky (for main body/legs)
- 12×10 inch (30x25cm) piece of minky (for spikes, optional)
- Fiberfill (or your preferred stuffing material)
- Small amount of green embroidery floss
- General sewing supplies (thread, needles, pins, scissors, rotary cutter and cutting mat, sewing machine)
Instructions
Watch the video or scroll down for the photo tutorial:
Step 1: Cut out pattern pieces. You’ll need:
- 2x Body (mirrored)
- 2x Front Leg (mirrored)
- 2x Back Leg (mirrored)
- 2x Spike (optional, mirrored)
If your fabric has nap or is a directional print, ensure that it runs in the same direction for all pattern pieces.
Step 2: Transfer the pattern markings, including the eyes and the placement of legs and spike to the right side of the body and spike pieces.
You may also like to make markings for the turning point of the stitch line for the spikes to make it easier to sew.
Step 3: Embroider the eyes by hand using a backstitch with 6 strands of embroidery floss.
Step 4: With right sides together, sew the outside of the spike pieces (with a 1/4 inch/6mm seam allowance). Leave the side that attaches to the body open.
Step 5: Make a small snip into the seam allowance to the turning points between each of the spikes. Depending on your fabric, you may also want to trim your seam allowance and/or clip the curves.
Step 6: Turn spikes right sides out, gently poking the individual spikes with a turning tool or chopstick, and press.
Step 7: With right sides together, sew the outside of the leg pieces (with a 1/4 inch/6mm seam allowance). Leave the side that attaches to the body open.
Step 8: Depending on your fabric, you may also want to trim your seam allowance and/or clip the curves. Turn leg right sides out.
Step 9: Lightly stuff the spikes and legs with fiberfill (or your preferred stuffing).
Step 10: Pin the spike piece onto the right side of one of the body pieces, as per the pattern markings.
Note: You will need to manipulate the pieces to line up the inside and outside curve. I recommend using lots of pins to get everything lined up.
Step 11: Stitch spikes with a basting stitch (by hand or on the sewing machine) just less than 1/4 inch/6mm from the edge.
Step 12: Pin the ears, arms and leg pieces onto the right side of the embroidered body piece, as per the pattern markings.
Step 13: Stitch into place with a basting stitch (by hand or on the sewing machine) just less than 1/4 inch (6mm) from the edge.
Step 14: Pin the front and back body pieces right sides together, making sure to tuck in the legs and spikes. I recommend using LOTS of pins, especially where the spikes pull the edge of the fabric inwards.
Step 15: Sew around the body with a 1/4 inch/6mm seam allowance, leaving a 1-1.5 inch gap at the neck for turning.
Step 16: Snip the seam allowance where the head and body meet, taking care not to clip the stitches. Trim the seam allowance and/or clip the curves. Turn the dinosaur right sides out through the gap in the neck.
Step 17: Stuff the teddy with your preferred amount of fiberfill. I recommend the snuggle test to get it just right: give it a quick cuddle to see how it feels. When it feels right, add just a little bit more to allow for the stuffing compressing over time.
Step 18: Hand-stitch the gap between the legs closed with a ladder stitch.
And it’s time to snuggle your cute and cuddly flat dinosaur plush!
The dinosaur is really cute & looks fairly easy to complete. My grandkids will love him! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for the free dinosaur pattern! You will make a lot of kids happy!